90s helmut lang ads
When the name Helmut Lang is mentioned, most people think of a silent rebellion within the fashion industry. He brought minimalism and androgyny to the forefront and made everyday garments cool. However, since his departure from the brand in 2005, much of that has been lost. The brand now suffers from poor creative direction and money-hungry designs. How did this all happen?
I. Helmut Lang's Early Years and Rise to Fame
- Raised by his grandparents in rural Austria before moving to Vienna
- Inspired by people on the street and uniforms
- Started making simple everyday garments for himself
- Gained local attention and opened his first studio and shop
II. The Rise of Helmut Lang
- Invited to show his first official runway show in Paris in 1986
- Offered a new minimalistic and seemingly ordinary approach to fashion
- Made everyday garments high fashion by using unconventional fabrics and details like bondage and paint splatter
- Created a post-punk uniform for those who wanted to silently rebel against the norm
III. The Fall of Helmut Lang
- Product Group purchased 49% of the brand in 1999
- Sales dropped over 60% from 1999 to 2003
- Poor decisions like cutting back on the denim line and introducing unsuccessful product lines
- Prada purchased the remaining 49% in 2004, leading to Helmut Lang's departure
- Brand deemed unprofitable by Prada in 2005
IV. Creative Directors and Attempts at Revival
- Michael and Nicole Kolovos took over creative direction from 2005 to 2014, but their work was uninspiring and inconsistent with Helmut Lang's energy
- Isabella Burley became editor in residence in 2017 and made questionable decisions like bringing in Travis Scott for a capsule collection
- Re-edition collection released in 2017 to make iconic archive pieces more accessible
- Shane Oliver designed the Spring/Summer 2018 collection, bringing a sexual and androgynous spirit to the brand
- Alex Brown became editor in 2019 and brought on designers Mark Thomas and Thomas Carson
- Current designers try to call back to Helmut Lang's design ethos but often rely on consumerism
The rise and fall of Helmut Lang is a tale of success and subsequent decline. After Helmut Lang's departure, the brand struggled to maintain its innovative and rebellious spirit. Poor decisions, changes in ownership, and a lack of creative direction led to a loss of the brand's essence. While there have been attempts to revive the brand, it remains to be seen if Helmut Lang can recapture its former glory.
BIGGEST Helmut Lang Archive in the World! (& other things to do in Berlin)
Another day, another dollar, or at least that's how it feels. Trying to go to Wen Chang in Berlin, but it's way too packed. I don't think I want to wait this long. Nah man, we're not doing this. We're not doing this.
So yeah, a couple of days in Berlin. I'm gonna show you guys around, show you some of the spots you need to hit up, some of the spots that Elijah hasn't been to as well. So you're gonna see his firsthand reaction. Yeah, excited, that excited.
So Wing Chun Wenching didn't work, so we came to Tokyo, which was a Korean fried chicken spot. We still have to wait, but the waiting list, the line, is just one guy in front of us. That's about it.
Right after I took the last shot, all of a sudden, like 10 people came and now I'm packed outside. I don't know if you can see it. This guy's trying to be sneaky.
Alright, the food. We got some soup ramyon, we got super spicy original, some kimchi and all that. We got a Hungry Hungry Hippo. And the guy said it's quite a lot in it. It's not. It is actually a lot, but we hungry, man. We're gonna dig in.
Just finished. You ate good. What do you say, man? Honestly, I'm just grateful for being here and grateful for the sport because the sport was amazing. No one can say anything more than pro recommendation.
Cocoin Berlin, how would you rate it? Let's say from one to five. It was a man. Honestly, like the spot, the food, the evening that we had, the conversations that we had, bro. So, okay, no hold on. The food alone, maybe I would say a four out of five, which is good. Yeah, three is average, no, two and a half. Three, let's say five out of ten is average and eight out of ten is already really good. Ten out of ten would be perfect, but that's rare, and I don't want to be too generous with rating food. So let's say an eight out of ten, which is still really good.
But the evening, man, conversations, good conversations, really good times. You know, with the brother, the night itself meant 10 out of 10. New inspirations, new impulses. I think we have to take those kind of trips, like these small getaway trips for playing two to three days, and we should do them every one and a half months or like every six weeks, not too close to each other, like two close time periods, but every six weeks or maybe every eight weeks would be possible and it would be healthy for us, even for ourselves but for our friendships, you know? Like to spark new aspirations, being outside of our comfort zones and being outside of our hometown Hamburg. I think we should do that more. We even should bring someone like Mifta or young or I don't know, like so that we can grow with each other.
The next day, a place that you definitely have to hit up when you're in Berlin, one thousand percent, if you're into the stuff that we're into, is Andreas Murkudis. It's one of, maybe the best store in all of Berlin. It's in this courtyard, and right across from it is also Darklands. If you're into some darker Rick Owens type avant-garde stuff, that's where you need to go.
And obviously, you got Yoji. Good stuff. They got crazy perfumes, got some of the sickest designers that you can think of. OMC by Luke Meyer, who also designs Chills Under with his wife Lucy. If you know about me, you know I'm a big fan of Luke Meyer.
And they got some kind of archival, I don't know, exhibit. All kinds of crazy archive, Hamilton. Damn, I didn't even know about this. They have people filming it. Yo, firewater, what a lucky day, I guess.
We also have the Rick Owens corner. Hey man, if you ever get the chance to actually touch Rick Owens puffer items, you have to do it. I think we're going to a master of fabric. Not too sure if I'm a fan of Rick Owens' whole ethos and his vibe, but his craft as a pattern maker and the fabrics that he creates and chooses, masterful.
Got the Porter bag because we need that, some Cokes because we need those. And here with the homies Andy and Elijah. Andy's living in Berlin. Stuff like this, I don't know, man. Sucks. 1998 Helmut Lang still in the packaging. I mean, I guess I do the same thing for Japanese stuff, but you know, I always have the feeling that finding a European designer is a bit more difficult than Japanese. Or maybe I'm just too deep into the Japanese stuff that I overestimated.
So lovers of fire, Elijah, what do you think? Is this a goldmine? Too many thoughts that I can't explain. So, I let the clothes speak for themselves.
Andreas, super dope. You have to check it out. Darklands is a nice place to go. There's some really good stuff in there. The staff is not that nice. The niceness of the staff does not match the niceness of the clothes. But one thing, if I can give you one advice, you know, the first time I went into these kind of scary stores that were not very welcoming was maybe seven, eight, nine years ago. And in the beginning, I was always very... I let it get to me, you know? I let it bother me. I let their negative energy overpower my curiosity and positive approach.
And I recommend, definitely go in there, say hi. If they look at you funny, if they follow you around, don't give a damn. Just do your thing. Just go through the stuff, look at the stuff. Don't care that they're following you around. They're not gonna kick you out, and that's a fact. They're not gonna kick you out. And one little cheat code you can use to get them off your back is to just tell them you're a student. Tell them you're a student, you're a design student, a fashion design student. And even if it's not true, just tell them a random school and tell them, Yo, I'm a student there, and I want to take a look at the stuff. And they're usually gonna leave you alone.
Even if they still follow you around, it's not gonna be with the same energy of like, You're not gonna buy anything. Because you already kind of told them, I'm not going to buy anything. So they're gonna leave you alone. So yeah, Darklands, good stuff. And they also have a second store, Darkland X, which is right around the corner in the basement. And that's more similar to the original store, which was in a warehouse somewhere a little off the beaten path. The second store was even cooler from a conceptual standpoint because the music and the smell and the vibe, very industrial, very hardcore.
And that's also the same thing that I told Elijah, I'm gonna tell you is that, you know, go to avant-garde fashion stores, even if you're not into avant-garde fashion. Go into avant-garde fashion stores and look at avant-garde designers, touch their clothes, look at the craftsmanship and everything. Because these people, they make no compromises. Their vision is clear, and they pursue that vision one thousand percent.
And you know, whenever you feel like your vision is drifting more towards being commercial or if you're making compromises, if you're changing things to not lose your original purpose, of course, your vision and your ideas can change over time, and it's natural. They will change, and it's good that they change because that means that you evolve as a person. But going to these kind of archive stores, not archives, avant-garde stores, you know, it's just a reminder to be true to yourself and to the things that you stand for.
Because the way they pursue their vision, those kind of designers, it's really hardcore. This is who we are, this is what we do, and we do it. We really live what we stand for. And it's always very inspiring, even if it's not inspiring as a reminder to stay true to your original idea and purpose in whatever project you want to pursue. So everything that Emma said applies. This is a life or even a life philosophy, to stay true to your values, to your ideas, to your vision. You should apply it to every aspect of your life, not only your craft, your art, or your design. Even how you talk to people, how you talk to yourself.
HELMUT LANG: Who was the king of 90s FASHION?⎜La Gazette
- Helmut Lang, a fashion designer known for his minimalist and groundbreaking designs, revolutionized fashion in the 90s.
- His influence can be seen in black and white, sharp, androgynous, and industrial fashion styles.
- But who was Helmut Lang? How did he revolutionize fashion? And what caused the downfall of his brand?
- Helmut Lang was born in rural Austria and grew up with his grandparents after his parents divorced and his mother passed away.
- As a teenager, he was forced to wear suits every day, which may have sparked his creativity for clothing.
- After leaving home at 18, he attended art school and began creating clothes for himself and his friends.
- In 1977, Lang opened a made-to-measure studio and started selling his unique designs.
- His unconventional approach to clothing, asking questions like why don't we sew the pocket here instead of there, gave his clothes a unique twist.
- In 1986, he was invited to show in Paris for the first time, establishing himself as an avant-garde creator with his use of unusual materials.
Revolution in Fashion:
- Lang's style clashed with the maximalism of the 80s, making his work anti-fashion.
- His arrival in the fashion scene coincided with the 1990 recession, making people more receptive to his discrete form of luxury.
- He moved to New York in 1997, gaining a cult-like following and revolutionizing the fashion month schedule.
- Lang elevated jeans from ordinary garments to luxury and designer pieces.
- He improved their cut, added decorative touches, and introduced innovative materials like rubber paint and heat-sensitive cloth.
- His famous painter jeans and biker knees became iconic and have been imitated by other brands.
- Lang drew inspiration from military uniforms, giving his clothes a functional aspect.
- He incorporated harnesses, straps, and other functional features into his designs.
- Ordinary garments like tank tops and bulletproof vests were given a twist and became desirable fashion pieces.
- Lang's runway shows were called séances de travail or work sessions, reflecting his artistic approach.
- He cast models of different ages and body types, breaking the norm of the fashion industry.
- He was the first designer to present his collection online, revolutionizing the way fashion shows were experienced.
Downfall and Departure:
- In 2000, Lang was nominated for the CFDA's most important awards but chose not to attend the ceremony, seeing himself as an outsider.
- The Prada Group acquired a majority stake in the Helmut Lang company, leading to a decline in sales.
- In 2005, Lang left the brand after the Prada Group purchased the remaining shares.
Constant Collaboration with Art:
- Lang collaborated with artists for his collections and campaigns.
- His campaigns often featured past work of photographers, showcasing the intersection of art and fashion.
- His boutiques also served as art spaces, blurring the lines between fashion and art.
- Helmut Lang's influence in fashion can still be seen today.
- His revolutionary designs, unconventional presentations, and constant collaboration with art set him apart from other designers.
- Despite the downfall of his brand, his impact on the fashion industry will always be remembered.
Helmut Lang Spring 1996
Helmut Lang is a fearless designer who is pushing fashion into the future. However, it is interesting that he chooses to showcase his latest collection in a backstage environment, which is more reminiscent of the 19th century. Nevertheless, this cool crowd hanging out backstage represents the essence of Helmut Lang's brand.
- Helmut Lang has steadily climbed the ladder of success in the fashion industry.
- Success doesn't come overnight; it requires hard work, dedication, and belief in your own story.
- Lang's clothes are known for being club cool, almost freezing. His models love the layers and mismatched elements that come together to create a strong effect.
- Lang's designs can be compared to reformed punk rock, representing the coolest side of individuality.
- There were rumors that this collection was dedicated to Courtney Love, an iconic figure in the music industry. The gothic influence, lace, and layering in the clothes hint at Love's style.
- Lang's clothes are not only fashionable but also feature razor-sharp tailoring and cutting-edge fabric technology.
- Lang wants people to not only buy his clothes but also embrace individuality and express themselves through fashion.
Helmut Lang's latest collection showcases his fearless approach to fashion. With his unique style, he has gained recognition in the industry. The combination of club cool, punk rock elements, and individuality make his designs stand out. Lang's message is clear: look good, express yourself, and be confident in your own style.
Fall/Winter Pickups (Helmut Lang, Arc'teryx, Kapital, A.P.C.)
Yo, we're here at work and this guy just caught the most epic haul. Check out what he got:
- Arc Terex beanie - This is the same one Frank Ocean was spotted wearing. It's become a super popular item.
- System A bag - This is part of Arc Terex's streetwear line. It's a sling bag that looks super cool.
- Capital vest - This is my favorite piece. It's wool on the outside and polyester on the inside, making it reversible. I wear it every day.
- Panchico shirt - This band has a lot of lore surrounding them. Regardless of the story, their music is awesome. I saw them live and picked up this shirt.
- Military Smock - This jacket has some cool adjustable features and longer sleeves. It's waterproof and looks sick.
- Unreleased sample - This hoodie is double hooded and has a cool fading design. It's a unique piece.
- Hookers parka - I found this one on Grailed and it's simple yet clean. It fits well with a variety of outfits.
- Barber jacket - This jacket has a cropped look and is Japan exclusive. It's made of nylon or polyester and doesn't smell like the vintage ones.
- APC trench - I got this from the APC archive store in Paris. It's a nice basic green parka that goes with everything.
- Weekday jeans - These baggy bootcut jeans are similar to Balenciaga ones but way cheaper. The quality is great.
- John Bull cargo pants - These black military-style cargo pants are a nice addition to my collection. The herringbone fabric gives them a unique look.
- Aquila Apollo sunglasses - These were gifted to me and I've been wanting them for a while. The quality is amazing for the price.
- Magnolia shirt - This button-up short sleeve shirt is made of a soft material and has intricate stitching.
Overall, this guy scored some killer pieces for his wardrobe. It's safe to say he's stoked about his haul!
new clothing pickups. (rick owens, helmut lang, margiela, etc)
Hey everyone! It's been a while since I last made a video, but I hope you've all been doing well. I've been enjoying life in my new apartment and braving the cold weather. Today, I want to talk about some new clothing items I've acquired recently. So, let's jump right into it!
1. Cropped White Tee:
I picked up this cool cropped white tee from Miley Supply for my brother. It has a design that I'm not quite sure about, but it's definitely interesting. Shout out to Sierra for giving me some information about it!
2. Vintage Western Floral Pattern Button-Up:
I'm not usually a button-up guy, but when I saw this vintage Western floral pattern button-up being sold by my friend Owen, I couldn't resist. It fits me perfectly and adds a nice touch to my wardrobe.
3. Mohair Cropped Sweater:
I decided to spice things up with this mohair cropped sweater. It looks great and has an editorial vibe to it. However, it's also incredibly itchy. Who would've thought?
4. Painted Converse:
I've always been a fan of Martin Margiela, so when I saw a pair of Converse that resembled their style, I couldn't resist. I bought them and painted them with white acrylic paint to achieve that artistic aesthetic.
5. Helmet Lane Over Sleeve Jacket:
I've been searching for a black Helmet Lane over sleeve jacket for ages. When I finally found one, I skipped class and drove straight to the store to get it. It's been my go-to jacket ever since.
6. Takovas Cowboy Boots:
I recently discovered the brand Takovas and fell in love with their boots. They're a bit pricey, but I managed to find a more affordable pair at a store called Clothing Warehouse. They add a nice pop of color to my mostly black wardrobe.
7. Richie Lee Collection:
I was lucky enough to be sent some pieces from Richie Lee's Black Friday drop. I received a sun-faded hoodie, cargo pants, flannels, everyday tees, and joggers. The quality of these items is top-notch, and they seamlessly fit into my wardrobe.
8. Rick Owens Denim:
Lastly, I traded some items to get a pair of blue Hustler denim jeans from Rick Owens. They're not new, but they're a great addition to my collection.
That wraps up my recent clothing acquisitions. I hope you enjoyed hearing about them and maybe found some inspiration for your own wardrobe. Remember to stay tuned for Richie Lee's Black Friday restock, and as always, stay stylish!
ENDYMA shares the BIGGEST Helmut Lang Collection in the world | Holy Grails
Welcome to my article about the Andy Archive, a collection of vintage clothing and rare pieces from various brands, with a focus on Helmut Lang. In this article, we will explore the archive, its restoration efforts, the unique design elements of Helmut Lang's work, and the significance of his designs in the fashion industry.
- The Andy Archive puts a lot of effort into restoring delicate and old pieces, such as a garment with massive holes.
- The archive's restoration process aims to make these pieces look brand new.
- The gym has been around for a while but now looks perfect after restoration.
The Studio and Fashion Designers:
- The studio of the garments in the archive is designed to record the work in a way that is relevant to fashion designers.
- The photos taken in the studio are symmetric and flat-looking, focusing on the design rather than the model wearing the garment.
- The archive's work is aimed at fashion designers who are looking for inspiration.
The Helmut Lang Collection:
- The archive boasts the largest Helmut Lang collection in the world.
- The collection is divided into color families, with each color representing a different typology.
- Starting with sleeveless tops and progressing towards more normal-looking tanks, the collection showcases the evolution of Helmut Lang's designs.
- Despite designing the same thing repeatedly, Helmut Lang's pieces have slight variations that make each one unique.
The Fun of Gathering:
- Helmut Lang's repetitive designs make it enjoyable to gather different colors and variations.
- The archive aims to gather all the different colors and styles of Helmut Lang's designs.
- The evolution of Helmut Lang's designs resembles the evolution of dinosaurs, with each piece being slightly different from the previous one.
The Helmut Lang Main Line:
- The archive also showcases the Helmut Lang Main Line, which includes ready-to-wear items.
- The black section of the collection hides many cool pieces, such as a biker jacket for women.
- The women's version of the biker jacket is considered better, with unique details inspired by an Italian grenade holder case.
Unique and Fragile Pieces:
- The archive also houses unique and fragile pieces, such as items made from different woven plastic fibers.
- These pieces are highly fragile and almost unwearable, making them rare and valuable.
- Some pieces are inspired by windsurf sails, with transparent and opaque sections.
- The archive also showcases a DIY moment from Helmut Lang's summer four collection, featuring tank tops with improvised shapes.
The Andy Archive is a treasure trove of vintage clothing and rare pieces from various brands, with a special focus on Helmut Lang. The archive's restoration efforts, unique design elements, and the significance of Helmut Lang's work in the fashion industry make it a valuable resource for fashion designers and enthusiasts. The collection showcases the evolution of Helmut Lang's designs, offering a glimpse into his creative process and the timeless appeal of his pieces.